Not far from the usual frequented Tuscan hotspots, Maremma Toscana is an area that largely goes unnoticed by many of the visiting tourists. This is not the Tuscany you know but it will be the one you fall in love with.
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Maremma Toscana where is it and why should you visit it?
A unique location that encompasses tranquil beaches, towering forests and the tuscan countryside. Maremma has an abundance of arable land that lends itself to producing some of the most delicious delicacies you’ll find in Italy.
Set within the Provincia of Grosseto which is the largest province in Tuscany but with the smallest population. There are three areas of the Maremma.
- The alta (upper) Maremma;
- The Maremma Grossetana;
- The bassa (lower) Maremma or Laziale (lower) Maremma.
The alta section runs from the River Cecina near Livorno and includes the inland areas with a skyline of protruding hilltop villages. According to Dante Alighieri, Maremma was the land between Cecina to Corneto (the ancient name of Tarquinia) which nowadays is represented by the larger part of the Provence of Grosseto. Once an uninhabitable marshland due to malaria the only people found roaming this are were the Butteri, Tuscan Cowboys. Jump to the present day and this is the largest agricultural section in Italy, famed for the Maremma cattle that produce distinct meats and cheeses as well as the emerging Tuscan Super wines.
Grosseto the "capital" of Maremma
At the centre of the Maremma is the “capital”, Grosseto. A medieval fortified village with ancient walls, Mura, that surround the historic centre. These walls were built in the 12th century to protect the village due to its location on the road between Pisa and Siena and rebuilt serval times with the walls visible today erected around 1567. In 1828 commissioned by Duke Leopold II Lorraine, the ramparts of the walls were converted into a raised garden with public footpath and is a unique way to see views of the town below to this day. There are multiple access points throughout the centre and the inner spaces of the walls are home throughout the year to art and music festivals.
What Italian city doesn’t have a Duomo? Ok there are obviously some that don’t but Italy has one in almost every location, and for good reason. They have traits of both a church and a cathedral which blends to create these architectural wonders. Grosseto is no different with the Duomo di San Lorenzo boldly standing in contrast with its soft white facade, as the main attraction of Piazza Dante.
The piazza is the beating heart of the villages and cities in Italy, here you will find locals dramatically conversing over a caffé (espresso), young children playing, students having lunch and sometimes you may even catch a glimpse of a glamorous wedding party celebrating at the town hall. Follow the little lanes that flow from this centre point to discover more of the old town, restaurants and independent shops. If you’re in Grosseto on a Thursday head to Piazza Esperanto to see the local mercato too.
Maremma Grossetana
The central territory of the province of Grosseto is home to the protected area of Parco Naturale della Maremma, and four World Wildlife Fund Reserves, Bosco Rocconi, Riserva Naturale del Lago di Burano and Riserva Naturale della di Orbetello.
The Parco Naturale Della Maremma is an expansive land that brings together the quiet beaches and dense pine forests with the River Ombrone running through it. Stretching for around 20 km, this park was left untouched by civilians while the rest of the Tuscan tourist sights built up around it. Later the inhabitants of the inland areas near the Uccellina Hills moved to the coast as it became safer with the dredging of the marsh lands.
The forest and the surrounding areas were left at peace to recharge and bloom with wildlife enjoying the fruits of the land. When conservationists realised the changes that had taken place the park was created to ensure this land was safeguarded from any changes that would disrupt the landscape. Now home to a thriving community of porcupines, foxes, deer, wild boar as well as the birds that take rest at the river.
There are guided tours that are an incredible opportunity to learn about the park and the land that you’re walking on, or simply explore by yourself in your own time stopping at the beach in Marina di Alberese. The park can be accessed by car as well as by bus from Grosseto train station to the Alberese Visitor centre.
Valle del Fiora and Area del Tufo
Another wonder of the Maremma in the Valle Del Fiora is the Terme or Thermal Springs. Near the village of Saturnia you will find the limestone drenched Cascate del Mulino or Mulino Waterfalls. Known for their benefits to support cardiovascular health and improve skin conditions these magical, naturally occurring springs are free to enjoy all year round. Italians flock to the springs to rejuvenate and unwind in the pools. There is also the Thermal baths of Saturnia rich in sulphur with a nearby spa if you want a little more luxury.
From here spend time in the village of Saturnia which overlooks the thermal springs and has many Etruscan ruins to wonder at as you walk around the village.
Then we have the Area del Tufo or Area of the Tuff, in Southern Maremma which has three spectacular Etruscan villages built into the Tuff Rocks. The most famous one being Pitigliano. As if placed from above, it looks as though it could easily melt into the ground as it teeters on top of this porous rock. Make sure you have your camera to capture this extraordinary sight.
You may have seen while scrolling on social media photos of cavernous restaurants set into the rock and this is where you’ll find them. Follow the Vie Cave from Pitigliano to Sovana which are rare walkways created by large cuts into the stone but the purpose of these is still unknown even today.
Sovana
Once almost completely forgotten due to a plague it’s now listed as one of the most beautiful villages to visit in Italy along with Pitigliano. Things to see include the Cathedral of San Pietro, a Romanesque church and one of the most famous monuments in the village. The Rocca Aldobrandesca is also an attraction not to miss, built by the family of the same name as a defence to protect the village. The Medici family made large renovations to the structure but over time this dominating building has turned to ruin however it remains an important historical element of the village.
Sorano
The third Tuff or Tufo village is Sorano which has two main points of access, one which is located at the bottom of the Orsini Fortress. This was also built by the Aldobrandeschi family as a defence mechanism against attacks. Sorano is not far from Pitigliano and also has the famous Vie Cave carved into the stone. The enigmatic vie cave and the Tufo rock between the villages are an excellent hiking spot for travellers that have a passion for active holidays. Explore this spot further either on your own or with a guided hiking tour, giving you another way to appreciate the marvel of the land surrounding the floating villages high on the hilltop. For exploring these areas it is essential to have your own vehicle.
Colline Metallifere
Literally meaning Metal Hills this area is comprised of multiple villages that have been utilised since Etruscan times for the rich minerals found in the stone and the earth in these villages and around the Tuscan Antiapennine. The metal hill villages are located throughout the nearby provinces of Siena and Livorno but most of them are found in the Province of Grosseto as part of the Maremma.
Most notably the hilltop village of Massa Marittima with its Duomo or Cattedrale San Cerbone. The front of which is set at an angle to the Piazza in front and is not visible when you first enter the village. The history and importance of the resources this place has given the Italian people throughout time is still what attracts visitors today, through the artwork found throughout the village linked to its mining past.
Set amongst the Metalliferous Hills within the countryside, is this ancient village with a lot to offer. This village boasts one of the most impressive romanesque duomos, La Cattedrale di San Cerbone, which emerges into view as you enter the old town towering over the Piazza. Wander up the ancient alleys to the tallest area of the village for incredible views. The winding streets provide you with shops of local producers making unique art, food and jewellery from the region which make a special momento that won’t end up in your local charity shop. At the base of Massa Marittima about 10km away is Lago Dell’Accesa (Lake Accesa). The lake is clear and warm in the summer where people enjoy a refreshing dip alongside the sea turtles that love a good swim here. In the 1980s evidence of a settlement near the lake was discovered leaving foundations of houses and tombs exposed for the public to discover during a visit to the lake. Take your car or walk from nearby Pesta, bring a picnic of your favourite Italian treats as there are also picnic benches placed throughout the area.
Discover more hidden Hilltop villages
In the Maremma there are hilltop villages perched throughout the land so we recommend hiring a car from Grosseto and taking a road trip to discover as many as you can. Including the ones mentioned above there are also smaller but just as important Etruscan hilltop villages of Vetulonia, Gavorrano and in the hamlet of Monte Amiata, you can find Arcidosso defined by the striking Aldobrandesca Tower with winding streets that lead to a castle. Travel up from here to find Santa Fiora and take in the view from the Peschiera lake, its one euro to enter which is used to maintain the area for everyone to enjoy. Walk over the small wooden bridge and look up for a striking, photo perfect vista. There is also a small but sweet green space in here.